When your Samsung dryer is not heating, it can cause laundry delays, frustration, and confusion. I’ve personally worked on Samsung dryers over the years—both as a user and helping neighbors troubleshoot theirs—and this is a common problem. The good news is that many of the issues behind a dryer not heating can be diagnosed and fixed at home with a basic understanding of how the appliance works.
In this article, I’ll guide you through all the possible reasons your Samsung dryer may stop producing heat and show you how to resolve the issue using a step-by-step process. Whether you own a gas or electric Samsung dryer, these methods will help.
Understanding Why a Samsung Dryer Stops Heating
Samsung dryers rely on either electric heating elements or gas igniters to dry your clothes. If the dryer drum spins but there’s no heat, that typically points to one of several possible culprits:
- Power issues
- Incorrect settings
- Clogged venting
- Faulty components like heating elements, thermal fuses, thermostats, or sensors
Let’s go through each cause and how to fix it.
Step 1: Check the Power Supply
For electric dryers, they need 240 volts to generate heat. If the dryer is spinning but not heating, it might be running on 120 volts only (enough to turn the drum, but not power the heating element).
What to do:
- Unplug the dryer.
- Inspect the power cord and plug for any visible damage.
- Check your circuit breaker. An electric dryer uses two breakers—one for motor, one for heat. Make sure both are on.
- If unsure, use a multimeter to test voltage at the outlet (240V needed for heating).
If your dryer is gas-powered, ensure the gas valve is fully open and the home supply is working.
Step 2: Double-Check Dryer Settings
Sometimes the issue is as simple as using the wrong drying mode.
What to do:
- Press the Power button to restart the machine.
- Avoid using Eco Dry, Air Fluff, or Time Dry with no heat—these modes don’t use heat.
- Use Normal, Heavy Duty, or High Heat settings.
- Turn off Wrinkle Prevent and Eco Mode.
Always make sure you’re using the correct cycle that involves heat.
Step 3: Clean the Lint Filter and Exhaust Vent
A blocked lint filter or exhaust vent can cause overheating, and in response, the dryer’s internal safety systems cut off the heat.
What to do:
- Remove and clean the lint filter before every load.
- Unplug the dryer and pull it away from the wall.
- Disconnect the vent hose from the back.
- Use a dryer vent cleaning brush or vacuum to clear the inside of the hose and wall duct.
- Check for any sharp bends or crushed vent pipes—these restrict airflow.
Tip: Clean the exhaust vent system fully at least every 6 months.
Step 4: Inspect the Heating Element (Electric Dryers Only)
The heating element is the part that heats the air inside the drum. If it burns out, the dryer won’t produce any heat.
What to do:
- Unplug the dryer and remove the rear panel.
- Locate the heating element assembly (usually metal and rectangular).
- Use a multimeter to test for continuity.
- If the test shows no continuity, the element is faulty and needs to be replaced.
Heating elements are widely available and can be replaced with a screwdriver and patience.
Step 5: Check the Thermal Fuse
A thermal fuse is a safety device that shuts off the heating system if the dryer gets too hot. Once tripped, it won’t reset.
What to do:
- Disconnect power.
- Open the rear panel of the dryer.
- Locate the thermal fuse (often near the blower housing or heating element).
- Test it with a multimeter for continuity.
- If it fails the test, replace it.
If your thermal fuse blew, it’s often a symptom of poor airflow or clogged vents. Fix those first before replacing the fuse.
Step 6: Test the High-Limit Thermostat
The high-limit thermostat monitors temperature and prevents overheating. Like the thermal fuse, if it’s faulty, it can stop heat production.
What to do:
- Unplug the dryer.
- Locate the high-limit thermostat near the heating element.
- Check it with a multimeter for continuity.
- Replace it if it shows no continuity.
While you’re in the back panel, inspect all connected wires for burns or corrosion.
Step 7: For Gas Dryers – Check Igniter and Flame Sensor
In Samsung gas dryers, heating depends on a glow-bar igniter and flame sensor. If these fail, the burner won’t ignite.
Igniter Test:
- Remove the dryer’s front panel (after unplugging it).
- Locate the igniter near the gas burner.
- Test it with a multimeter—no continuity means replacement is needed.
Flame Sensor Test:
- Located next to the igniter.
- Test for continuity at room temperature.
- If it shows open or infinite resistance, replace it.
Note: If gas isn’t igniting, and the parts above test fine, your gas valve solenoids may be the issue.
Step 8: Examine the Moisture Sensor
If your dryer thinks clothes are already dry, it may cut heat early.
What to do:
- Open the dryer door and locate the moisture sensors—metal strips usually located inside the drum near the lint screen.
- Clean the sensors using a soft cloth and rubbing alcohol to remove fabric softener or residue.
- Do not sand or scratch the sensors.
Moisture sensors can sometimes cause misreads but are rarely the root cause of no heat.
Step 9: Run a Diagnostic Mode (On Select Samsung Models)
Some Samsung dryers have built-in diagnostics.
What to do:
- Press Power to turn on the dryer.
- Hold Adjust Time Up + Dry Level buttons together for 5 seconds.
- Error codes (like HC, tS, tO, etc.) may display.
Look up any error code on Samsung’s support page to understand what part is affected.
Final Tips and When to Call a Professional
- Always unplug the dryer before disassembling.
- Replace faulty parts with genuine Samsung components.
- If you’re uncomfortable testing electrical parts or dealing with gas, call a certified technician.
- Regular maintenance like cleaning vents and avoiding overloads can prevent heating failures.
From personal experience, in about 70% of cases, the issue is either clogged vents or a burned heating element. Both are fixable at home with a bit of time and the right tools.
